So far, not a few motorbike owners have increased their riding power by bore up. You do this by changing the size of the piston so that the volume of fuel and air sprayed into the combustion chamber increases. As a result, the combustion is more complete with a high compression ratio. This method was chosen by many modifiers and motorcycle owners. The reason is, in addition to being practical, the costs are also cheaper.

However, not a few also did not get the results as expected. Besides the power does not increase drastically, it also saves the potential for danger. Energy does increase, but only 20-30 percent. Whereas if the method is right, energy can increase by 50-70 percent. In addition, if the engine is not correct, the

Make sure the cylinder diameter is suitable

One thing that must be considered before bore up is to ensure the maximum limit of the cylinder diameter when enlarged. There are two types of bore up techniques, namely bore up with the original cylinder whose diameter is enlarged.

The second technique is to replace the cylinder liner. If you want to replace the cylinder liner, it is necessary to pay attention to the safe limit of the bore up, so that no other components or parts of the engine must be sacrificed in vain to enlarge the cylinder. This is important to pay attention to because each type and brand of motorcycles has a different thicknessIf the cylinder diameter does not allow it to be enlarged and forced, it is not impossible that it will be broken. Of course it is very dangerous.

 

Recalculate engine capacity

After confirming the cylinder thickness that allows it to be enlarged, the next step is to recalculate the capacity of the engine or the cc of the motorbike engine. Do the calculation – of course, ask someone who is skilled or understand the engine – how much volume of combustion chamber there is.Then, calculate how much space is capable of increasing the capacity. So far, it is common for modifiers to make additions ranging from 0.25 millimeters (mm) to 1 mm.

This step should be done extra carefully and carefully. The reason is if it is haphazard, then the space capacity will be too large. As a result, the combustion chamber generates excessive heat, causing the piston to jam or even the cylinder block to burst. If this happens, the motorbike will stop suddenly when it is driven fast and bounces. The engine catches fire and can spread to all parts of the vehicle.

 

Carefully recalculate engine heat and compression ratio

After both steps are done and the mechanic or modifier says okay, the next step is to calculate the engine heat ratio and compression ratio. This means knowing exactly what the pressure is in the combustion chamber compared to the speed of fuel intake, air turbulence, the ideal mixture of air and fuel. Compression pressure is the average effective pressure that occurs in the combustion chamber directly above the piston. When the ideal compression pressure and heat pressure in the engine – usually a large repair shop uses a compression gauge to find out – is known, and it is possible to bore up then the mechanic can do it.

The ideal size of heat and compression levels for each motor type and brand varies. Manufacturers usually provide limitations by including the size of the upper dead center of the heat level of the combustion chamber, and include the engine compression level in the manual. Remember, a combustion chamber that is too large by the factory standards will also not be good. In addition to being wasteful, it also causes too much heat so that the piston gets stuck and the cylinder block breaks or breaks.So far, modifiers for motorbikes on the streets often trim the piston head to increase engine compression. The amount varies, for two-stroke motorbikes usually 1-2 mm, and four-stroke motorbikes